Woollen Spinning, Weaving, Knitting, Dyeing, Bleaching and Printing Technology Handbook
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Author: NPCS Board of Consultants & Engineers |
Spinning is a major industry; it is part of the textile manufacturing process where three types of fibre are converted into yarn, then fabric, then textiles. The textiles are then fabricated into clothes or other artifacts. The fundamental operations for the stocks of fibers from which a woollen yarn is made are opening, cleaning, mixing, forming a slubbing or roving and finally thinning the roving to the required yarn number and twisting it to produce a yarn possessing the requirements for subsequent processing such as warping, winding, weaving, finishing and dyeing. These demands vary with the different conditions confronted in manufacturing but include the following features: strength, elasticity, uniformity in weight per unit length and even distribution of twist. Woollen spinning involves three principal operations, irrespective of whether the mule or the frame or ring spinner is used, namely: Drafting, final drawing out, Twisting, or insertion of twist, Winding on, or packaging. Weaving constitutes the actual production of cloth or fabric, i.e., to combine the essentially one dimensional textile structure thread or yarn in such a way as to result in an essentially two dimensional structure of cloth of certain appearance, hand and strength. Knitting is the art and science of constructing a fabric by inter lacing loops, there are two types of knitting: warp and weft knitting. In recent years whole new classes of dyes such as fiber reactive, disperse, cationic basic, neutral dying premetalized have been discovered and produced for the dyeing of the natural and new synthetic, hydrophobic fibers. Bleaching improves whiteness by removing natural coloration and remaining trace impurities from the cotton; the degree of bleaching necessary is determined by the required whiteness and absorbency. Cotton being a vegetable fibre will be bleached using an oxidizing agent, such as dilute sodium hypochlorite or dilute hydrogen peroxide. If the fabric is to be dyed a deep shade, then lower levels of bleaching are acceptable, for example. However, for white bed sheetings and medical applications, the highest levels of whiteness and absorbency are essential. Wool fiber production technology necessitates full understanding of its growth, pristine structure, physical, chemical and functional properties as well as processes involving manufacture of textile fibers.
Some of the fundamentals of the book are woollen spinning, atmospheric conditions in wool manufacturing, Bradford system top gilling or top finishing, the principle of weaving, woollen and worsted weaves, knitting, the changing outlook of the knitting industry, influence of fiber fineness on quantity of dye required, altering the affinity of the wool fiber for dyes, dyeing of yarn according to the packing system, special wool finishes, water repellent, stain resistant treatments for worsted and woollen fabrics, the printing of wool piece goods, lustering of wool fabrics, fluorochemicals, mothproofing etc.
The present book is of its own kind which covers woollen spinning; knitting, dyeing, bleaching and printing, special wool finishes etc. This is an important reference book for wool technologists, scientists, new entrepreneurs, research scholars and all others related to this field.
Some of the fundamentals of the book are woollen spinning, atmospheric conditions in wool manufacturing, Bradford system top gilling or top finishing, the principle of weaving, woollen and worsted weaves, knitting, the changing outlook of the knitting industry, influence of fiber fineness on quantity of dye required, altering the affinity of the wool fiber for dyes, dyeing of yarn according to the packing system, special wool finishes, water repellent, stain resistant treatments for worsted and woollen fabrics, the printing of wool piece goods, lustering of wool fabrics, fluorochemicals, mothproofing etc.
The present book is of its own kind which covers woollen spinning; knitting, dyeing, bleaching and printing, special wool finishes etc. This is an important reference book for wool technologists, scientists, new entrepreneurs, research scholars and all others related to this field.
Contents
1. WOOLLEN SPINNING
Mule Spinning
The Self-acting Mule
The Operations of Mule Spinning
General Mechanical Details
Production of a Mule
Standspinner
Woollen Ring Frame Spinning
Reduced Balloon—Balloonless Spinning
Main Technical Data
Twisting or Yarn Folding
Woollen Yarn Calculations
Woollen Yarns
Yarn Number and Wool Grade
Yarn Strength
Wool Blends with Man-made Fibers
Atmospheric Conditions in Wool Manufacturing
2. WORSTED TOPMAKING
Worsted Carding
Geelong Converter
Backwashing
Dryers
Top Steaming and Aging
Oiling
Gilling or Preparing
Worsted Combing
Combs and Combing
Bradford Worsted Combing
Principle of Combing
Punch or Ball Winding
Operation of the Noble Comb
Parts of the Noble Comb
Production of Noble Comb
Control of Noble Combing
Bradford System Top Gilling or Top Finishing
Can Gillbox or Conditioner
Top Gillbox or Top Baller
French Worsted Combing
Working Principle of the French Comb
French Finish Gilling
Noils
Amount and Type of Noils
Tow-to-Top Conversion Systems
Strerch-breaking Methods
Cutting Methods
3. THE PRINCIPLE OF WEAVING
The Essential Motions of a Loom
Details of Principal Components of Weaving Machinery
Shedding or Harness Motion
Let-off Motion
The Take-up Motion
Full Width Temples
Picking Motion
The Shuttle
Automatic Stop Motions and Controls
Warp Stop Motions
Weft Stop Motion
Protection Stop Motions
Weft Pirn Feeler Devices
Box Motion
Automatic Filling Replenishment and Multi-colour Weaving
Box Loader System
Unifil
Pirnless Weaving
The Sulzer Weaving Machine
Other Development in Weaving Machines
4. WOOLLEN AND WORSTED WEAVES
Methods of Describing Weaves
Use of Design Paper
The Plain Weave
Derivatives of the Plain Weave
The Twill Weave
Balanced or Even Twills
Effect of Yarn Twist on Twill
Steep and Reclining Twills
Pointed and Herringbone Twills
Broken or Reversed Twills
Corkscrew Twills
Inter-locking and Offset Twills
Undulating Twills
Diversified, Combination, and Fancy Twills
The Satin Weave
The Crepe Weaves
The Bedford and other Corded Weaves
Backed and Double Cloths
Filling-backed Cloths
Warp-backed Cloths
Double Cloths
Montagnacs, Chinchillas, and Felts
Triple Cloths
Plushes and Velvets
Filling Plushes
Warp Plushes
Practical Fundamentals of Fabrication and Design
Construction in Commercial Fabrics
Maximum Textures of Special Type of Fabrics
Relative Constructions of New Fabrics
5. KNITTING
Principles of Stitch Formation
Weft Knitting Machines
Plain, Rib, and Purl Stitches
Tuck and Miss Stitch Fabrics
Special Knitted Fabric Design Effects
The Changing Outlook of the Knitting Industry
6. DYEING, BLEACHING AND PRINTING
Modern Dyestuffs
Designation of Dyes
Trade Names
Letter Designations
Abbreviations and Percentages
Index Numbers
Theory of Dyeing
Wool Dyes
Acid Dyes
Chrome dyes
Metal-complex Dyes
Metal-complex Dyes
Vat Dyes
Solubilized Vat Dyes
Reactive Dyes
Influence of Fiber Fineness on Quantity of Dye Required
Some Sources of Faulty Dyeing
Tippy Dyeing
Scouring
Wetting Out
Mixed Stocks
Carbonizing and Neutralizing
Sun-bleached Yarns and Fabrics
Lime in Pulled Wools
Effects of Faulty Steaming
Matching Shades
Conditioning Samples before Matching
Feeding Dyes
Ring Dyeing
Excessive Crocking
Chlorinated Wool
Metal Contaminants
Stripping Dyed Wool
Abrasion Marks
Boiler Compounds
Machine and Spinning Oils
The Matching of Shades
Matching and Shade Control by Instruments
Low Temperature Dyeing
Irga Solvent Process
Collins Process
C.S.T.R.O. Process
Chrome Dyes
Acid Milling and 1:1 Metal-complex Dyes
Reactive Dyes
The Dyeing of Wool at High Temperatures
Ultrasonic Dyeing
Pad Dyeing Methods
Cibaphasol Technique
Irga Pad Process
C.S.I.R.O. Methods
Altering the Affinity of the Wool Fiber for Dyes
Decreasing the Affinity of Wool for Dyes
Increasing the Affinity of Wool for Dyes
Bicoloured Tippy Dyeing
Dyeing Wool Mixtures
Wool and Silk Mixtures
Wool and Vegetable Fiber Mixtures
Wool and Man-made Fiber Mixtures
Wool Dyeing Machinery
Construction of Dyeing Machines
Loose-stock Dyeing Machinery
Top or Slubbing Dyeing Machinery
Pot or Can Dyeing Machinery
Continuous Top Dyeing
The Machine Built by Fleissner
Segard—Serracant Tunnel Equipment
Ilma Range
Konrad Peter Range
General Experiences
Yarn-dyeing Machinery
Dyeing of Yarn According to the Packing System
Dyeing of Yarn According to the Hanging System
Dyeing of Yarn According to the Spindle System
Machines for Drying of the Dyed Materials
Hank Dryers
Piece-dyeing Machinery
Jet Dyeing Machines
Beam Dyeing
The Pad-roll Piece Dyeing Machine
Continuous Woollen Piece Dyeing
Bleaching Wool
Hydrogen Peroxide Bleach
Peroxide “Dye-in†Bleach
Hydrosulfite Bleach
Double Bleach
Continuous Process
Potassium Permanganate Bleach
Bisulfite Bleach
Sodium Chlorite Bleach
Optical Bleaching Wool
Bleaching and Dyeing in One Bath
Effect of Stabilizers
Anti-yellowing Treatment
Vigoureux or Melange Printing
The Printing of Wool Piece Goods
Pretreatment
Acid Dyes
Basic Dyes
Direct Dyes
Vat Deys
Soluble Vat Dyes
Oxidation Colours
Spray Printing
7. SPECIAL WOOL FINISHES
Introduction
Flat Setting
Setting with Monoethanolamine Sulfite Solutions
Permanent Press
Lustering of Wool Fabrics
Luster on Pile Fabrics
Mechanism
Luster on Clear Finished Worsteds
Stretch Fabrics
Stretch Yarns
Inducing Yarn Crimp during Weaving
Yarn Crimp Development, Interchange and Chemical Setting
Finishing Helanca Ski Cloth
Water Repellent, Stain Resistant Treatments for Worsted and Woollen Fabrics
Silicones
Chromium Compounds
Fluorochemicals
Mothproofing
Mule Spinning
The Self-acting Mule
The Operations of Mule Spinning
General Mechanical Details
Production of a Mule
Standspinner
Woollen Ring Frame Spinning
Reduced Balloon—Balloonless Spinning
Main Technical Data
Twisting or Yarn Folding
Woollen Yarn Calculations
Woollen Yarns
Yarn Number and Wool Grade
Yarn Strength
Wool Blends with Man-made Fibers
Atmospheric Conditions in Wool Manufacturing
2. WORSTED TOPMAKING
Worsted Carding
Geelong Converter
Backwashing
Dryers
Top Steaming and Aging
Oiling
Gilling or Preparing
Worsted Combing
Combs and Combing
Bradford Worsted Combing
Principle of Combing
Punch or Ball Winding
Operation of the Noble Comb
Parts of the Noble Comb
Production of Noble Comb
Control of Noble Combing
Bradford System Top Gilling or Top Finishing
Can Gillbox or Conditioner
Top Gillbox or Top Baller
French Worsted Combing
Working Principle of the French Comb
French Finish Gilling
Noils
Amount and Type of Noils
Tow-to-Top Conversion Systems
Strerch-breaking Methods
Cutting Methods
3. THE PRINCIPLE OF WEAVING
The Essential Motions of a Loom
Details of Principal Components of Weaving Machinery
Shedding or Harness Motion
Let-off Motion
The Take-up Motion
Full Width Temples
Picking Motion
The Shuttle
Automatic Stop Motions and Controls
Warp Stop Motions
Weft Stop Motion
Protection Stop Motions
Weft Pirn Feeler Devices
Box Motion
Automatic Filling Replenishment and Multi-colour Weaving
Box Loader System
Unifil
Pirnless Weaving
The Sulzer Weaving Machine
Other Development in Weaving Machines
4. WOOLLEN AND WORSTED WEAVES
Methods of Describing Weaves
Use of Design Paper
The Plain Weave
Derivatives of the Plain Weave
The Twill Weave
Balanced or Even Twills
Effect of Yarn Twist on Twill
Steep and Reclining Twills
Pointed and Herringbone Twills
Broken or Reversed Twills
Corkscrew Twills
Inter-locking and Offset Twills
Undulating Twills
Diversified, Combination, and Fancy Twills
The Satin Weave
The Crepe Weaves
The Bedford and other Corded Weaves
Backed and Double Cloths
Filling-backed Cloths
Warp-backed Cloths
Double Cloths
Montagnacs, Chinchillas, and Felts
Triple Cloths
Plushes and Velvets
Filling Plushes
Warp Plushes
Practical Fundamentals of Fabrication and Design
Construction in Commercial Fabrics
Maximum Textures of Special Type of Fabrics
Relative Constructions of New Fabrics
5. KNITTING
Principles of Stitch Formation
Weft Knitting Machines
Plain, Rib, and Purl Stitches
Tuck and Miss Stitch Fabrics
Special Knitted Fabric Design Effects
The Changing Outlook of the Knitting Industry
6. DYEING, BLEACHING AND PRINTING
Modern Dyestuffs
Designation of Dyes
Trade Names
Letter Designations
Abbreviations and Percentages
Index Numbers
Theory of Dyeing
Wool Dyes
Acid Dyes
Chrome dyes
Metal-complex Dyes
Metal-complex Dyes
Vat Dyes
Solubilized Vat Dyes
Reactive Dyes
Influence of Fiber Fineness on Quantity of Dye Required
Some Sources of Faulty Dyeing
Tippy Dyeing
Scouring
Wetting Out
Mixed Stocks
Carbonizing and Neutralizing
Sun-bleached Yarns and Fabrics
Lime in Pulled Wools
Effects of Faulty Steaming
Matching Shades
Conditioning Samples before Matching
Feeding Dyes
Ring Dyeing
Excessive Crocking
Chlorinated Wool
Metal Contaminants
Stripping Dyed Wool
Abrasion Marks
Boiler Compounds
Machine and Spinning Oils
The Matching of Shades
Matching and Shade Control by Instruments
Low Temperature Dyeing
Irga Solvent Process
Collins Process
C.S.T.R.O. Process
Chrome Dyes
Acid Milling and 1:1 Metal-complex Dyes
Reactive Dyes
The Dyeing of Wool at High Temperatures
Ultrasonic Dyeing
Pad Dyeing Methods
Cibaphasol Technique
Irga Pad Process
C.S.I.R.O. Methods
Altering the Affinity of the Wool Fiber for Dyes
Decreasing the Affinity of Wool for Dyes
Increasing the Affinity of Wool for Dyes
Bicoloured Tippy Dyeing
Dyeing Wool Mixtures
Wool and Silk Mixtures
Wool and Vegetable Fiber Mixtures
Wool and Man-made Fiber Mixtures
Wool Dyeing Machinery
Construction of Dyeing Machines
Loose-stock Dyeing Machinery
Top or Slubbing Dyeing Machinery
Pot or Can Dyeing Machinery
Continuous Top Dyeing
The Machine Built by Fleissner
Segard—Serracant Tunnel Equipment
Ilma Range
Konrad Peter Range
General Experiences
Yarn-dyeing Machinery
Dyeing of Yarn According to the Packing System
Dyeing of Yarn According to the Hanging System
Dyeing of Yarn According to the Spindle System
Machines for Drying of the Dyed Materials
Hank Dryers
Piece-dyeing Machinery
Jet Dyeing Machines
Beam Dyeing
The Pad-roll Piece Dyeing Machine
Continuous Woollen Piece Dyeing
Bleaching Wool
Hydrogen Peroxide Bleach
Peroxide “Dye-in†Bleach
Hydrosulfite Bleach
Double Bleach
Continuous Process
Potassium Permanganate Bleach
Bisulfite Bleach
Sodium Chlorite Bleach
Optical Bleaching Wool
Bleaching and Dyeing in One Bath
Effect of Stabilizers
Anti-yellowing Treatment
Vigoureux or Melange Printing
The Printing of Wool Piece Goods
Pretreatment
Acid Dyes
Basic Dyes
Direct Dyes
Vat Deys
Soluble Vat Dyes
Oxidation Colours
Spray Printing
7. SPECIAL WOOL FINISHES
Introduction
Flat Setting
Setting with Monoethanolamine Sulfite Solutions
Permanent Press
Lustering of Wool Fabrics
Luster on Pile Fabrics
Mechanism
Luster on Clear Finished Worsteds
Stretch Fabrics
Stretch Yarns
Inducing Yarn Crimp during Weaving
Yarn Crimp Development, Interchange and Chemical Setting
Finishing Helanca Ski Cloth
Water Repellent, Stain Resistant Treatments for Worsted and Woollen Fabrics
Silicones
Chromium Compounds
Fluorochemicals
Mothproofing
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