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The Complete Technology Book on Textile Spinning, Weaving, Finishing and Printing (4th Revised Edition)

Author: NIIR Board of Consultants & Engineers
Published: 2025
Format: paperback
ISBN: 9788178331638
Code: NI107
Pages: 528
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Publisher: Asia Pacific Business Press Inc.

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Textile industry is one of the few basic industries, which is characterised as a necessary component of human life. One may classify it as a more glamorous industry, but whatever it is, it provides with the basic requirement called clothes. Spinning is the process of converting cotton or manmade fibre into yarn to be used for weaving and knitting. Weaving is a method of textile production in which two distinct sets of yarns or threads are interlaced at right angles to form a fabric or cloth. Finishing refers to the processes that convert the woven or knitted cloth into a usable material. Printing is the process of applying colour to fabric in definite patterns or designs.

The textile industry occupies an important position in the total volume of merchandise trade across countries. Developing countries account for little over two-third of world exports in textiles and clothing. It is the second largest employer after agriculture, providing employment to over 45 million people directly and 60 million people indirectly. The future for the textile industry looks promising, buoyed by both strong domestic consumption as well as export demand. 


This book is based on the latest technology involved in textile industry, which describes the processes available at the spinning and fabric forming stages coupled with the complexities of the finishing and colouration processes to the production of wide ranges of products. 

The major contents of the book are dyeing of textile materials, principles of spinning, process preparatory to spinning, principles of weaving, textile chemicals, yarn preparation, weaving and woven fabrics, knitting and knit fabrics, nonconventional fabrics, cellulosics, mixed fibers, printing compositions, printing processes, transfer dyes, transfer inks etc. It describes the manufacturing processes and photographs of plant & machinery with supplier’s contact details. 

It will be a standard reference book for professionals, entrepreneurs, textile mill owners, those studying and researching in this important area and others interested in the field of textile industry. 
 

Contents

1.    Textile Spinning

        1.1        Classification of Spinning

                     1.1.1       Short Staple Spinning

                     1.1.2       Long Staple Spinning

                     1.1.3       Filament Spinning

        1.2        Types of Spinning Processes

        1.3        Spinning Process

                     1.3.1       Blending

                     1.3.2       Carding

                     1.3.3       Combing

                     1.3.4       Gilling

                     1.3.5       Drawing

                     1.3.6       Roving

                     1.3.7       Spinning

                     1.3.8       Winding

                     1.3.9       Assembly Winding

                     1.3.10     Twisting

                     1.3.11     Steaming

2.    How to Start Textile Spinning Business

3.    The Principles of Spinning

        3.1        Long Fibre Spinning

        3.2        Short Fibre Spinning

4.    Different Spinning Process

        4.1        Spinning Process Types

        4.2        Cotton Yarn Spinning Overview

        4.3        Understanding Yarn

        4.4        Yarn Manufacturing Process

                     4.4.1       Step 1 – Ginning Process of Cotton

                     4.4.2       Step 2-Blowing

                     4.4.3       Step 3-Carding

                     4.4.4       Step 4-Combing

                     4.4.5       Step 5-Drawing

                     4.4.6       Step 6-Roving

                     4.4.7       Step 7-Spinning

                     4.4.8       Step 8-Winding and Spooling

        4.5        Machinery and Equipment used in a Cotton Mill

        4.6        Spinning of Wool Yarn

        4.7        Wool Yarn Spinning Process

        4.8        Types of Wool Spinning Machines

        4.9        Spinning of Worsted Yarn

        4.10     Mule Spinning

        4.11     Ring Spinning

        4.12     Process of Worsted Yarn Spinning

5.    Plant Layout Description of Textile Spinning Unit

6.    Textile Weaving

        6.1        Different Type of Weaving

                     6.1.1       Plain Weaving

                     6.1.2       Satin/Sateen

                     6.1.3       Jacquard Weave

                     6.1.4       Leno or Gauze Weave

                     6.1.5       Pile Fabric Weave

                     6.1.6       Basket Weave

        6.2        Principles of Weaving Process

        6.3        Yarn Requirements

                     6.3.1       Warp

                     6.3.2       Weft

        6.4        Weaving Preparations

        6.5        Loom Timing

        6.6        Weaving Machine

        6.7        The Classification of the Weaving Machinery

        6.8        Steps in the Action of the Insertion of Warp and Weft Yarns in Loom to Form a Fabric

        6.9        Weaving Process

        6.10     Types of Loom

        6.11     Weave Patterns

        6.12     What is Textile Weaving Machine?

7.    How to Start Textile Weaving Business

8.    Yarn Preparation

        8.1        Introduction

        8.2        Winding

        8.3        Warping

        8.4        Slashing or Warp Sizing

        8.5        Drawing-in and Tying-in

9.    Plant Layout Description of Textile Weaving Industry

10.  Textile Finishing

        10.1     Types of Textile Finishing

                     10.1.1     Mechanical Finishing

                     10.1.2     Chemical Finishing

        10.2     Some Requirements of Chemical Finishes Include

        10.3     Factors that are Commonly Considered for Proper Formulation of the Chemical Finishes Include

        10.4     The Finishes are Applied to

        10.5     Routine Fabric Finishes

                     10.5.1     Singeing

                     10.5.2     Desizing

                     10.5.3     Scouring

                     10.5.4     Bleaching

                     10.5.5     Sizing/Stiffening

                     10.5.6     Degumming

                     10.5.7     Weighting

                     10.5.8     Tentering

                     10.5.9     Mercerization

                     10.5.10   Calendering

                     10.5.11   Carbonizing

                     10.5.12   Crabbing

                     10.5.13   Decating

                     10.5.14   Fulling/Milling

                     10.5.15   Heat Setting

                     10.5.16   Brushing

                     10.5.17   Shearing

                     10.5.18   Optical Brightening

11.  How to Start Textile Finishing Business

12.  The Principles of Finishing

        12.1     Finishing Processes and Machines

                     12.1.1     Mending, Knotting and Burling

                     12.1.2     Scouring

                     12.1.3     Milling

                     12.1.4     Crabbing

                     12.1.5     Steaming

                     12.1.6     Dyeing

                     12.1.7     Washing-Off

                     12.1.8     Drying

                     12.1.9     Tentering

                     12.1.10   Brushing and Raising

                     12.1.11   Cropping or Cutting

                     12.1.12   Singeing

                     12.1.13   Pressing

                     12.1.14   Calendering

                     12.1.15   Schreincring

                     12.1.16   Filling

                     12.1.17   Conditioning

                     12.1.18   Waterproofing

        12.2     General Notes

13.  Plant Layout Description of Textile Finishing

14.  Textile Printing

        14.1     Origin of Textile Printing

        14.2     Early Textile Printing Methods

        14.3     Types of Textile Printing Methods

                     14.3.1     Block Printing

                     14.3.2     Roller Printing

                     14.3.3     Screen Printing

                     14.3.4     Heat Transfer Printing

                     14.3.5     Digital Printing on Fabric

        14.4     Comparison between Dyeing and Printing

        14.5     Textile Printing Process

                     14.5.1     Fabric Preparation

                     14.5.2     Selection of Printing Method

                     14.5.3     Preparation of Printing Paste

                     14.5.4     Printing Application

                     14.5.5     Fixation and Drying

                     14.5.6     Washing and After-Treatment

                     14.5.7     Finishing and Quality Control

                     14.5.8     Packaging and Dispatch

        14.6     Importance of Textile Printing in the Fashion Industry

15.  How to Start Textile Printing Business

16.  The Principles of Designing and Colouring

        16.1     Materials

        16.2     Interlacing

        16.3     The Use of Point-Paper

        16.4     Colour

        16.5     Figure Designing

17.  The Dyeing of Textile Materials

        17.1     Mordants

        17.2     Assistants

        17.3     Dyestuffs

                     17.3.1     Mordant Dyes

                     17.3.2     Acid-Mordant Dyes

                     17.3.3     Acid Dyes

                     17.3.4     The Direct Cotton Dyes

                     17.3.5     The Basic Colours

                     17.3.6     Dyes Applied by Special Processes

        17.4     The Ingrain Dyes

        17.5     Water Used in Dyeing

        17.6     Interdependence of Processes

        17.7     Processes Preliminary to Dyeing

        17.8     Wool Scouring

        17.9     “Boiling-off” Silk

        17.10   Cotton Bleaching

        17.11   Wool Dyeing Processes

        17.12   Dyeing of Loose Wool

        17.13   Slubbing (Silver)

        17.14   Yarn Dyeing

        17.15   Piece Dyeing

        17.16   “Woaded Colours”

        17.17   Blacks on Wool

        17.18   Dark Blues, Greens, and Browns on Wool

        17.19   Cotton Dyeing Processes

        17.20   Fast Blacks on Cotton

        17.21   Fast Colours on Cotton

        17.22   Basic Colours on Cotton

        17.23   Dyeing of Mercerized Cotton

        17.24   Union Dyeing Processes

        17.25   Silk Dyeing Processes

        17.26   The Dyeing of Artificial Silk

        17.27   Colour Matching

        17.28   Fastness Properties of Dyes

18.  Printing Compositions

        18.1     Printing Pastes with Developing Dyes

                     18.1.1     Improved Base Printing Process

        18.2     Formic Acid as Developing Medium for Azo Dyes

        18.3     Auxiliary Agents in Print Formulations

                     18.3.1     Fixing Prints on Synthetics without Intermediate Drying

        18.4     Hydroxyalkyl Carboxyalkyl Cellulose Thickening Agent

        18.5     Sodium Cellulose Sulfate as Thickening and Acid-Fixing Agent

        18.6     Additive for Pigmentary Printing Pastes

        18.7     Salts of Diaryl Ether Sulfonic Acids

        18.8     Carrier for Cationic Dyes

        18.9     Dye Carrier Comprising Phenyl Cyclohexane and Derivatives

19.  Printing Processes

        19.1     Fixation

                     19.1.1     Fixation with Vapor of Organic Solvent

        19.2     Dyestuffs for Methylene Chloride Fixation Processes

        19.3     Improved Fixation of Reactive Dyes on Cellulose Fibers

                     19.3.1     Continuous Dyeing and Printing of Piece Goods

        19.4     Printing Heavy Pile Fabrics with Powder Preparations

        19.5     Improved Alignment of Printed Patterns

        19.6     Uniform Heat-Setting of Continuous Synthetic Filament Groups

        19.7     Voluminous Substrate Rolled up with Foramed Dye

        19.8     Continuous Printing Process by Direct Liquid Film
Transfer

        19.9     Method for Printing and Flocking Simultaneously

        19.10   Sprayed Carriers for Continuous Print Fixation

20.  Textile Chemicals

        20.1     Indian Demand

        20.2     Demand for Bleaching Agents

        20.3     Textile Bleach Formulation

        20.4     Industry Trends and Success Factors

        20.5     Outlook and Opportunities

        20.6     Fluorescent Whitening Agent

        20.7     Usage Pattern

        20.8     Industry Trends and Success Factors

        20.9     Outlook and Opportunity

        20.10   Flame Retardants

        20.11   Halogenated Compounds

        20.12   Non Halogenated Compounds

        20.13   Application

        20.14   Sector of Applications

        20.15   Outlook  and Opportunities

        20.16   Bleaching Agents

        20.17   Hydrogen Peroxide

        20.18   Sodium Hydrosulphite (Hydros)

        20.19   Sodium Hypochlorite

                     20.19.1   Application and Formulations

        20.20   Bleaching Assistants

        20.21   Chelating Agents

        20.22   Fatty Alcohol Ethoxylate

        20.23   Carboxy Methyl Cellulose

        20.24   Demand

        20.25   Acrylates

        20.26   Industry Trends and Success Factors

        20.27   Pattern of Use and Formulation - Starch/Modified Starch

        20.28   The Spin Finish Compositions for Polyester and Polyamide Yarn

        20.29   White Oil

        20.30   Industry Trends and Success Factors

        20.31   Warp Sizes

        20.32   Sector of Applications for Sizing Agents

        20.33   Filament Yarns

        20.34   Staple or Spun Yarn

        20.35   Starch/Modified Starch

        20.36   Demand

        20.37   Polyvinyl Alcohol

        20.38   Operations Involved in the Use of the Textile Chemicals

        20.39   Classification of Textile Chemicals

        20.40   Classification Based on Use Pattern

        20.41   Group Classification

        20.42   Yarn Lubricants

        20.43   Spin Finishing Agent

21.  Transfer Dyes

        21.1     Anthraquinones

                     21.1.1     Anthraquinone Ink Formulation

        21.2     Anthraquinone Dyes for Synthetics

        21.3     Deep Yellow Colors on Polyesters

        21.4     Indolenine Methines for Acid-Modified Synthetics

        21.5     Heterocyclic Naphthalene Derivatives

        21.6     Printing Polyacrylonitriles with Disperse Dyes

        21.7     Disperse Dyes Containing Carboxylic Acid Groups

        21.8     Hydrolyzable Silyl-Substituted Dyestuffs

        21.9     Nitroacridone Dyestuffs

        21.10   Heat Transfer Black Dyestuff A

        21.11   Heat Transfer Black Dyestuff B

        21.12   Dyestuff Combinations for Long-Pile Fabrics

22.  Transfer Inks

        22.1     Organic Base

                     22.1.1     Cationic Dyes in Organic Solvents

        22.2     Carbinol Base of Cationic Dyestuff as Dyestuff Intermediate

        22.3     Sublimable Dyestuff Base on Acid-Modified Fibers

        22.4     Aqueous and Oil in Water

                     22.4.1     Oil-in-Water Transfer Printing Emulsions

        22.5     Aqueous Preparations of Sparingly Soluble Dyestuffs

        22.6     Organic-Aqueous Printing Inks

        22.7     Water-Dilutable Transfer Ink Compositions

        22.8     Dry Preparation

                     22.8.1     Dispersing Aid for Printing Ink Preparation

        22.9     Hot-Melt and Hot-Stamp Inks

                     22.9.1     Hot-Melt Ink Composition

                     22.9.2     N-Methoxymethylated Nylon Copolymer for Hot-Stamp Ink

        22.10   Others

                     22.10.1   Production of Transfer Paper by Rotary Screen Printing

        22.11   Group 1

        22.12   Group 2

        22.13   Transfer Inks for Household Use

        22.14   Inks of High Filler Content

        22.15   UV-Curable Inks for Offset-Printing Transfers

23.  Nonconventional Fabrics

        23.1     Introduction

        23.2     Nonwoven Systems and Fabrics

        23.3     Chemically or Adhesively Honded Fabrics

        23.4     Mechanically Bonded Fabrics

        23.5     Tufting

        23.6     Flocking

        23.7     Laminated and Bonded Fabrics

        23.8     Wet Adhesive Bonding

        23.9     Foam-Flame Bonding

24.  Synthetic Substrates

        24.1     Anthraquinones

                     24.1.1     Nitroanthraquinones

        24.2     Thiocyanomethyl-Substituted Anthraquinones

                     24.2.1     Tetra-a-Substituted Anthraquinone Derivatives

                     24.2.2     Trichromatic Dyeing of Polyacrylonitriles

                     24.2.3     Diverse Synthetic Substrates

        24.3     Monoazo Dyestuffs

                     24.3.1     Water-Insoluble Monoazo Dyestuffs

                     24.3.2     Yellow Monoazo Dyes

                     24.3.3     N-b-1,2,3-Triazolylethyl Anilino Coupling Component

        24.4     Mixture of Monoazo Dyestuffs for Polyesters

                     24.4.1     Monoazo Dye Mixtures for Navy Shades

        24.5     Azo Containing Compounds

                     24.5.1     Water-Soluble Disazo Dyestuffs for Polyamides

        24.6     Gold and Orange Prints on Polyamides

                     24.6.1     Bicationic Disazo and Trisazo Dyes for Acid-Modified Synthetics

                     24.6.2     Bisazo Dyestuffs of the 2,6-Diaminopyridine
Series

                     24.6.3     Heterocyclic Basic Phenylazophenyl Dyes for Polyacrylonitriles

                     24.6.4     Water-Insoluble Nitrophenylazophenyl Compounds

                     24.6.5     Having a 2-Nitro-4-Phenylsulfamoyldiphenylamine Nucleus

                     24.6.6     Azocoumarinic Dyes for Hydrophobia Synthetics

                     24.6.7     Cyanoaryl-Thiodiazole-Azo Dyestuffs

                     24.6.8     Dyestuffs Tolerant to Temperature and pH
Variations

        24.7     Printing of Nickel-Containing Polyolefins

25.  Natural and Synthetic Substrates

        25.1     Anthraquinones

                     25.1.1     Sulfonic-Acid-Containing Anthraquinones for Polyamides

        25.2     Polyfluoro Acid Anthraquinone Dyestuffs for Polyamides

        25.3     Fiber-Reactive Anthraquinone Compounds

        25.4     Aminoanthraquinone Reactive Disperse Dyes

        25.5     Azo Compounds

                     25.5.1     Disazo Dyestuffs Containing Phenylmethane Sulfonic Acid and Indole

        25.6     Naphthylene and Tetrahydronaphthylene-Containing
Azo Dyestuffs

        25.7     Monoazo Dyestuff Containing Fiber-Reactive Group

        25.8     Cold-Water-Soluble Acid Dye Compositions

        25.9     Polyvalent Metal and Azo-Barbituric Acid

        25.10   Anionic and Cationic Dyes

                     25.10.1   Fluid and Stable Dispersions of Anionic Dyes

                     25.10.2   Cold-Water-Soluble Solid Anionic Dye Preparations

        25.11   Heterocyclic Cationic Dyestuffs

        25.12   Water-Soluble Quaternary Ammonium Phenylazo Cationic Dyes

        25.13   1,2,4-Benzotriazinium Dyestuffs

26.  Cellulosics

        26.1     Reactive Dyes

                     26.1.1     Organic Dye with Phosphonic Acid Monofluoride

        26.2     Aminonaphthyl Azobenzene Vinyl Type Reactive Dyes

        26.3     Phthalocyanine Reactive Dyestuffs

        26.4     Water-Soluble Fiber-Reactive Dyestuffs

        26.5     Disperse Dyes

                     26.5.1     Fixation with Aliphatic Alcohols, Amines, or Aminoalcohols

        26.6     Azo Dyes Having Substituted 2,6-Diaminopyridine Coupling Component

        26.7     Acylating Cellulose Fibers

27.  Mixed Fibers

        27.1     Polyester and Wool

                     27.1.1     Tone-in-Tone Dyeing of Polyester-Wool Blend

        27.2     Cellulosics and Synthetic Polyamides

                     27.2.1     Marked Reactive Dyestuff

        27.3     Swellable Cellulosics And Synthetics

                     27.3.1     Ethoxylated Condensate of Monocarboxylic Acid and Hydroxyalkylamine

        27.4     Water-Soluble Solvent and Swelling Agent

        27.5     Disazo Dyes Derived from Amino-Pyrazole

        27.6     Unformed Disperse Dye and Swelling Agent

        27.7     Cellulosics and Synthetics

                     27.7.1     Unformed Disperse Dye with Reactive Dye

        27.8     Textile Treated with Epoxy-Group-Containing Compounds

        27.9     Impregnation with an Aqueous Composition

        27.10   Blends of Natural and Synthetic Fibers

                     27.10.1   Aqueous Composition of Disperse and Reactive Dyestuffs

28.  Plant Layout Description of Textile Printing Industry

29.  BIS Standards

30.  Plant Layout and Process Flow Chart & Diagram

31.  Photographs of Plant and Machinery with Suppliers Contact Details

•    Double Roller Gin Machine

•    Carding Machine

•    Weaving Machine

•    Airjet Weaving Machine

•    Knitting Machine

•    Circular Knitting Machine

•    Rapier Loom

•    Air Jet Loom

•    Water Jet Loom

•    Needle Loom Machine

•    Textile Printer

•    Textile Testing Equipment

•    Dyeing Jigger

•    Yarn Dyeing Machinery

•    Textile Washing

•    Spinning Machine

•    Cone Winding Machine

•    Cut and Loop Tufting Machine

•    Speed Frame

•    Comber

•    Multi Cage Screen Stretching Machine

Sample Chapters

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