Herbal cosmetics are the product of cosmetic chemistry, a science that combines the skills of specialists in chemistry, physics, biology, medicine and herbs. Since cosmetics are applied mostly to the skin, hair and nails, a brief description of the anatomy of these is desirable.
In classifying herbal cosmetics, it must be considered that the consumers of these preparations, most of whom are girls and women, are more concerned with their physical than their chemical characteristics. Now-a-days herbal cosmetic is occupying more popularity than synthetic cosmetic. So there is very good scope for new entrants, because it has both domestic as well as export market.
The present book contains formulae, manufacturing processes of different herbal cosmetics like cosmetics for skin, nails, hair etc. It also covers analysis method of cosmetics, toxicity and test method.
The book is very useful for new entrepreneurs, technologists, professionals, researchers and for those who are already in this field.
COSMETIC EMULSIONS
Herbal
cosmetic lotions and creams are emulsions of water-based and oil-based phases.
An emulsion is two-phases system consisting of two incompletely miscible
liquids, the internal, or discontinuous, phase dispersed as finite globules in
the other. Special designations have been devised for oil and water emulsions to
indicate which is the dispersed and which the continuous phase. Oil-in-water
(o/w) emulsions have oil as the dispersed phase in water as the continuous
phase. In water-in-oil (o/w) emulsions, water is dispersed in oil, which is the
external (continuous) phase.
Properties
of Emulsions:
The properties that are most apparent, and thus are usually most
important, are: ease of dilution, viscosity, colour, and stability. For a given
type of emulsification equipment, these properties depend upon: (1) the
properties of the continuous phase, (2) the ratio of the external of the
internal phase, (3) the particle size of the emulsion, (4) the relationship of
the continuous phase to the particles (including ionic charges), and (5) the
properties of the discontinuous phase. In any given emulsion, the properties
depend upon which liquid constitutes the external phase, i.e., whether the
emulsion is o/w or w/o. The resulting emulsion type is controlled by: (1) the
emulsifier: type, and amount, (2) the ratio of ingredient, and (3) the order of
addition of ingredients during mixing.
The dispersibility (solubility) of an emulsion is determined by the
continuous phase; thus if the continuous phase is water-soluble, the emulsion
can be diluted with water; conversely, if the continuous phase is oil-soluble,
the emulsion can be diluted with oil.
The ease with which an emulsion can be diluted can be increased by
decreasing the viscosity of the emulsion. The viscosity of an emulsion when the
continuous phase is in excess is essentially the viscosity of the continuous
phase. As the proportion of internal phase increases, the viscosity of the
emulsion increases to the point that the emulsion is no longer fluid. When the
volume of the internal phase exceeds the volume of the external phase, the
emulsion particles becomes crowded and the apparent viscosity is partially
structural viscosity.
An emulsion is stable as long as the particles of the internal phase do
not coalesce. The stability of an emulsion depends upon: (1) the particle size;
(2) the difference in density of the two phases; (3) the viscosity of the
continuous phase and of the completed emulsion; (4) the charges on the
particles; (5) the nature, effectiveness, and amount of the emulsifier used; and
(6) conditions of storage, including temperature variation, agitation and
vibration, and dilution or evaporation during storage or use. The stability of
an emulsion is affected by almost all factors involved in its formulation and
preparation. In formulas containing sizable amounts of emulsifier, stability is
predominantly a function of the type and concentration of emulsifier.
Emulsifiers:
Emulsifiers can be classified as ionic or nonionic according to their behaviour.
A ionic emulsifier is composed of an organic lipophilic group (L) and a
hydrophilic group (H). The hydrophilic-lipophilic balance (HLB) is often used to
characterize emulsifiers and related surfactant materials. The ionic types may
be further divided into anionic and cationic, depending upon the nature of the
ion-active group. The lipophilic portion of the molecule is usually considered
to be surface-active portion.
Nonionic emulsifiers are completely covalent and show no apparent
tendency to ionize. They can, therefore, be combined with other nonionic
surface-active agents and with either anionic or cationic agents as well. The
nonionic emulsifiers are likewise less susceptible to the action of electrolytes
than the anionic surface-active agents. The solubility of an emulsifier is of
the greatest importance in the preparation of emulsifiable concentrates.
Emulsifiers, being surface-active agents, lower surface and interfacial
tensions and increase the tendency of their solution to spread.
O/w emulsifying agents produce emulsions in which the continuous phase is
hydrophilic; hence, such emulsions are generally dispersible in water and will
conduct electricity. The surfactants that are capable of producing such
emulsions usually have and HLB of more than 6.0 (preferably 7), the hydrophilic
portion of their molecules being predominant. (Between HLB 5 and 7 many
surfactants will function as either w/o or o/w emulsifiers, depending on how
they are used.
O/w
emulsifiers
HLB
P.E.G.
300 distearate
nonionic
7.3
Sorbitan
monolaurate
nonionic
8.6
P.E.G.
400 distearate
nonionic
9.3
Triethanolamine
streate
anionic
12.0
P.E.G,
6000 monolaurate
nonionic
19.2
W/o emulsifiers produce emulsions in which the continuous phase is
lipophilic in character (oil, wax, fat, etc). Such emulsions are not generally
dispersible in water and do not conduct electricity. The surfactants capable of
producing such emulsions usually have an HLB of less than 6.0 and preferably
below 5. The lipophilic portion of their molecules is predominant.
W/o emulsifiers
HLB
Lanolin alcohols
nonionic
ca 1.0
Ethylene glycol
monostreate S/E
nonionic
2.0
Propylene glycol
monostreate S/E
anionic
3.2
Sorbitan monooleate
nonionic
4.3
P.E.G. 200 dilaurate
nonionic
6.0
CHAPTER 3
COSMETIC
CREAMS
Materials used in creams may be prepared in o/w or in w/o emulsions. The
esthetic effect and degree of emolliency depend to a great extent on the
emulsion type as well as on the emulsion composition. O/w emulsions produce a
cooling effect on application to the skin owing to water evaporation. W/o
emulsions do not produce this effect since water evaporation is slowed by the
film of the oil in the continuous phase.
The classical example of a cream was prepared from 3.0% beeswax, 11.8%
spermaceti, 40.2% sweet almond oil, and 45.0% rose water. In 1890 the formula
was changed to 12.1% beeswax, 12.6% spermaceti, 55.4% sweet almond oil, 0.5%
borax, and 19.4% rose water.
This was the basic formula for the familiar cold cream that is now made
with mineral oil instead of almond oil. Its occlusive action aided in
rehydration of the corneum when allowed to remain on the skin for an appreciable
length of time. Because the solvent action of mineral oil tends to remove skin
surface lipids when the cream is applied for short period of time, partial
replacement with a vegetable oil is needed. These emulsions are w/o, the
emulsifier is sodium cerotate formed by reaction of borax and free cerotic acid
in the beeswax. If the water content is raised to approximately 45% or more the
composition changes to an o/w emulsion.
Nonionic emulsifiers, such as glyceryl monostreate, propylene glycol and
polyethylene glycol esters of fatty acids, sorbitol, and ethoxylated sorbitol
esters of fatty acids, are used to prepare creams that have stability at acid pH
as well as alkaline pH.
Anionic emulsifiers, such as the amine soaps prepared by reaction of
fatty acids with various amines (e.g., triethanolamine), are popular in
preparing slightly alkaline creams. Most of these creams are of the o/w type.
W/o creams can be prepared with anionic soaps with as calcium and magnesium
soaps of fatty acids formed in situ.
Cationic emulsifiers are used in the preparation of emulsion systems of
increase deposition of the emulsion on negatively charged surfaces such as skin
and hair. A popular cream prepared with cationic emulsifiers has the following
composition; 0.10% antioxidant, 3.00% cetyl alcohol, 3.00% dew axed lanolin,
3.00% mineral oil, 0.15% N-(colaminoformylmethyl) pyridinium chloride, 1.20%
N-(colaminoformylmethyl) pryidinium chloride stearate, 0.15% preservative
(methyl and propel paraben (5:1), 4.00% isopropyl myristate, 6.00% propylene
glycol, 76.05% distilled or deionized water, and 0.35% perfume.
Vanishing
Cream: Vanishing
cream can be considered to be an emulsion of a free fatty acid (usually stearic
acid) in a nonalkaline medium. The basic ingredients are: 65-75% water, 15-20%
stearic acid, 8-12% glycerol, 0.5-1.5% alkali (KOH), qs (as needed)
preservative, and qs perfume. Of the stearic acid used, about 15-20% is
specified; the rest remains as free acid. All the ingredients are based on lime
flower.
Manufacture:
The oils, waxes, emulsifiers, and other oil-soluble components are heated to 75°C
in a steam-jacketed kettle. The water-soluble components (alkalis,
alkanolamines, polyhydric alcohols, and preservatives) are dissolved in the
aqueous phase and heated to 75°C in another steam-jacketed kettle. To allow for
evaporation of water during the heating and emulsification, about 3-5% excess
water (based on formula weight) is added.
The procedure for preparing o/w and w/o emulsions is to add the warmed
inner phase very slowly to the outer phase (also at 75°C), stirring constantly
and homogenizing to assure efficient emulsification. Finely dispersed o/w
emulsions can also be prepared by adding the aqueous phase to the oils.
Initially the low concentration of water forms a w/o emulsion according to the
phase-volume relationship. The slow addition and emulsification of the water
increase the viscosity of the system while the oil phase expands to a maximum.
At this point, the continuous oil phase breaks up into minute droplets as
emulsion inversion occurs, characterized by a sudden decrease in viscosity. This
emulsification technique proceeds smoothly at the critical inversion point in a
well-balanced, low oil-wax system, but it frequently causes coagulation in high
oil-wax emulsions. The conventional procedure of adding the inner phase to the
outer is preferable for creams and lotions.
The rates of addition and mechanical agitation of the dispersed phase are
critically important in determining the efficiency of emulsification. The
product formed may vary from a completely dispersed inner phase in a well
emulsified system, to a mixed emulsion in a poorly emulsified system, the latter
owing to excessive rate of addition of inner phase and to inadequate stirring.
This in turn affects the consistency viscosity, and stability of creams and
lotions.
Total
stirring times and cooling rates are important to lotion viscosity, cream
consistency, and emulsion stability. Experimental formulas are often developed
in vessels that are not equipped with a heating and cooling jacket. Under these
air-cooled conditions, longer stirring times are necessary. The transition to
full-scale production in jacketed equipment introduces a variable in the
physical factors contributing to emulsion preparation. If cooling is started too
soon after emulsification is complete, crystallization of the higher melting
waxes may occur.
The temperature at which the perfume oils are added to the cream or
lotion is another factor contributing to emulsion instability. The addition of
perfume to a w/o emulsion proceeds smoothly owing to its solubility in the
external phase. In o/w systems, the oil must break through the continuous
aqueous phase to be emulsified.
If the cream is to be hot-poured, it is stirred to 5°C above the
congealing point, any required colour solutions are added, and the cream held at
that temperature with occasional stirring during the filling procedure. If
cold-filling is preferred, the cream is stirred to 35°C, any colour solutions
are added, and filling proceeds at room temperature.
Some of the newer type cold creams, developed to compete with the old
types, are made in combination with absorption bases, with herbal bases,
emulsifying waxes and triethanolamine or other additions.
The manufacturing procedure for making cold creams is as follows:
Dissolve the borax in hot water. Melt the various waxes together and add
any fatty substances like lanolin, lard, petrolatum, if desired, and run into
the oils, keeping the temperature at about 70°C. Pour in the borax solution at
the same temperature with constant stirring. Mix without heat for about one hour
and one-half. When cool (about 45°-50°C.) add the perfume.
It is a necessary precaution in making cold creams, to have the molten
fats and water solution at the same temperature before mixing them, because the
addition of cold water to hot waxes is likely to result in partial
solidification of some of the wax, in the form of minute particles that will
impart grittiness, an unpleasant defect, when applied to the skin.
In making variations of the usual cold cream with triethanolamine, melt
the waxes, fats and oils together, bringing the temperature to about 80°C. Then
into a separate kettle put the water, glycerin and triethanolamine and bring the
solution almost to the boiling point. Add the melted fats to the triethanolamine
solution. Stir rapidly until an emulsion forms and when the temperature drops to
about 45°C., add the perfume and herbal base.
When making cold cream, containing lanolin absorption base, melt the
waxes, add the absorption base to the almond oil and bring the temperature of
the mixture to about 80°C. Then slowly add water heated to the same
temperature, stirring until thoroughly emulsified. When cool, add the perfume.
The manufacture of cold cream containing glyceryl monostearate is very
simple. All the ingredients in the formula are put into a kettle and heated to
the boiling point with constant stirring until all of the glyceryl monostearate
has melted. Stirring is continued until cool enough to perfume.
The consistency of any of the following formulas can be adjusted by
increasing or decreasing the wax content. Although it is not indicated, the
keeping qualities of all creams containing vegetables oils is assured by the
addition of 0.15% of a good preservative, such as methyl or propyl
parahydroxybenzoate. Borax also exerts a preservative action but only a very
mild one. In all cases mineral oil of 65-75 viscosity (say bolt) can be
substituted for vegetables oils.
Various
formula follow.
No.1 Cold Cream
by weight
White
beeswax
7.0
Paraffin
10.0
Ceresin
3.0
Almond
oil (65-75)
44.0
Borax
1.0
Water
34.5
Perfume
0.5
100
No.2
Spermaceti
5.0
White
beeswax
15.0
Almond
oil (65-75)
55.0
Borax
0.8
Distilled
water
23.7
Perfume
0.5
Perfume
100
No.3
White
beeswax
20.0
Almond
oil (65-75)
50.0
Distilled
water
28.8
Borax
0.7
Perfume
0.5
100
No.4
White
beeswax
20.0
Almond
oil (65-75)
50.9
Rose
water
29.5
Borax
0.5
100
No.5
Spermaceti
8.0
White
beeswax
12.0
Sweet
Almond oil (65-75)
55.0
Distilled
water
23.5
Borax
1.0
Perfume
(Herbal base)
0.5
100
No.6
Spermaceti
5.0
White
beeswax
15.0
Lanolin
3.0
Peanut
oil, refined
51.7
Distilled
water
24.0
Borax
0.8
Perfume
(Herbal base)
0.5
100.0
No. 7
White
beeswax
22.0
Bitter
almond oil (65-75)
50.8
Distilled
water
26.0
Borax
0.8
Perfume
0.4
100.0
No. 8
White
beeswax
15.0
Vegetable
lard
50.0
Lanolin
9.0
Distilled
water
24.5
Borax
1.0
Perfume
0.5
100.0
No. 9
White
beeswax
15.0
Vegetable
lard
10.0
Sesame
oil
20.0
Almond
oil
20.0
Borax
1.0
Rose
water
34.0
100.0
No. 10
Spermaceti
10.0
White
beeswax
12.0
Almond
oil
56.0
Rose
water
21.0
Borax
1.0
100
No. 11
Sesame
oil
42.5
Lanolin
4.5
White
beeswax
15.5
Spermaceti
6.0
Borax
1.0
Water
30.0
Perfume
0.5
100.0
No.12
Lanolin
absorption base
20.0
Vegetable
lard (65-75)
40.0
Water
24.5
White
beeswax
15.0
Perfume
0.5
100.0
No.13
Paraffin
6.0
White
beeswax
12.0
Vegetable
lard (65-75)
54.0
Stearic
acid
1.0
Borax
1.0
Water
25.5
Perfume
0.5
100.0
No. 14
| Beeswax
|
25.0
|
| Neem
oil
|
25.0
|
| Water
|
48.75
|
| Borax
|
1.25
|
| |
100.0
|
No. 15
Beeswax
25.0
Neem
oil
37.5
Water
36.25
Borax
1.25
100.0
No. 16
Beeswax
16.67
Chandan
oil
33.33
Water
49.17
Borax
0.83
100.0
No.17
Beeswax
14.28
Rakta
chandan oil
57.14
Water
27.87
Borax
0.71
100
No. 18
Beeswax
25.0
Aonla
oil
50.0
Water
23.75
Borax
1.25
No.19
Beeswax
20.0
Turmeric
oil
40.0
Water
39.0
Borax
1.0
No.20
Beeswax
16.67
Ushira
oil
60.0
Water
32.5
Borax
0.83
No. 21
Beeswax
14.28
Chandan
oil
42.84
Water
42.13
Borax
0.75
No.22 Cold Cream 905
Egg
yolk
20.0
White
wax
4.0
Ceresin
10.0
Tulsi
oil
10.0
Glycerin
5.0
Water
51.0
100.0
In making a cream solely from beeswax, mineral oil,
water, and borax, the following general factors should be considered: Borax
should not be less than 5 percent of the beeswax used; not more than 8 percent,
depending upon the acid number of the beeswax. As the proportion of beeswax
increases, the cream becomes harder.
Almond/Mineral oil, in relationship to water, has stiffening, rather than
a softening effect upon the cream as the proportion is increased. Above 60
percent of mineral oil, the cream shows signs of instability.
Increase of water softens the cream until the product becomes definitely
liquid. When water is too low, the cream may be of the water-in-oil type rather
than the customary oil-in-water. Increasing amounts of water seem to lead to
fine grained and more lustrous creams. A good balance seems to be reached when
water and oil are present in approximately equal amounts but good products
results when the water-oil ratio, varies from 1:2 to 2:1.
No.
23 Theatrical Cold Cream
By weight
Beeswax
15.0
Aonla
oil`
60.0
Rose
water
24.0
Borax
1.0
100.0
To make this, melt the wax, add the paraffin oil and continue to heat
with constant stirring until they are well mixed. Use indirect heat to avoid
overheating. Dissolve the borax in the rose water with the aid of heat and while
still warm gradually add to the melted wax and oil, stirring constantly until
cold. If desired distilled water may be used in place of the rose water and any
desired herbal perfume added.
No.
24 Theatrical Cold Cream
By weight
Spermaceti
12.0
Honey
10.0
Stearic
acid
2.0
Chandan
oil
55.5
Water
20.0
Borax
0.5
Perfume
oils to suit
100.0
Melt the solids together in a jacketed kettle; add the oil and mix well.
Then add the hot water in which the borax has been dissolved, proceeding as
directed in the formula for theatrical cold cream. This cream has a peculiar
granular structure, quite different from ordinary cold creams.
No.25
Semi-greaseless Cold Cream
By weight
Beeswax
15.0
Spermaceti
1.5
Turmeric
paste
9.0
Neem
oil
46.0
Cocoanut
oil
1.5
Powdered
borax
0.5
Powdered
white Castile soap
0.5
Water
26.0
100.0
Melt the solids by indirect heat, add the oils and stir well. Dissolve
the soap and borax in the water by means of heat and while still hot add the
solution gradually with constant stirring to the wax and oil mixture. Continue
to heat for five minutes, stirring all the time, then remove from the fire and
stir until cold. As with other creams, this one may be made heavier by adding
more wax.
No.
26 Whitening Cold Cream
White
vegetable lard
14.0
Beeswax
12.0
Spermaceti
4.0
Titanium
dioxide
10.0
100.0
Heat oil and waxes to 140°F. in agitator. Dissolve borax and ultramarine
in hot water and adjust temperature to 140°F. in jacket kettle. Pour water
solution into wax, melt and agitate for one hour. Draw out little from bottom of
the kettle to assure proper mix. Fill at once.
No. 27 Cold
Cream
White rose oil
110 gms
Paraffin (refined M.P. 133°F.)
15 gms
Spermaceti (block)
12.5 gms
Water
55gms
Borax (gran.)
30 gms
Ultramarine
30 grains
Cold cream perfume
22 gms
Melt the wax with the spermaceti and petrolatum as usual and while
cooling rub up with the titanium dioxide, mixing evenly. Dissolve the oils in
the alcohol and stir into the mixture. Pass through an ointment or roller mill
before filling.
The above formulas, while typical, do not include all the variations of
cold creams that are possible. Many other combinations may be made. In some
cases, borax is omitted and the beeswax and oil are melted together, cooled to
the point at which solidification begins and warm water is added by beating it
into the mixture. Such creams are not as white, of as high luster, nor of as
smooth a texture as those containing borax. They are also less stable.
Cold creams made with borax are far superior to those without it, since
the emulsion is whiter, smoother, and more stable. Creams of this type are
oil-in-water in character if enough water (about 30 percent or more) is present.
Borax in excess of the amount required for neutralization makes the cream more
alkaline without contributing to appearance or stability, while too little borax
does not lead to the desired smooth cream.
Other alkalies may advantageously be used in place of all or part of the
borax, but few formulas of this type have been given in the literature.
As the proportion of beeswax increase, the cream becomes harder; below 15
percent beeswax, no other hardening material being present, creams are liable to
be too soft. Mineral oil as compared to water has stiffening rather than a
softening effect on the cream as the proportion is increased. The cream becomes
unstable if more than 60 percent of oil is present. Increase of water makes a
softer cream until the cream becomes liquid. With too little water, the emulsion
may be of the water-in-oil instead of the oil-in-water type. Larger amounts of
water within the set limits make finger grained and more lustrous creams.
Cleaning creams are presumed to lead the sale of all other creams in
sales volume. Dirt on the skin may consist of residues of skin secretions as
well as deposits from the surroundings. This dirt is bound by oily substances,
is very adherent, and requires special methods of removal. Emulsification, as
exemplified by soap, is very efficient. Since soap, even of high quality, may
have excess alkali and may be too drying to the skin surface, women prefer a
cream of some sort. Creams do not work by emulsification. For the most part they
depend upon the solvent action of mineral oil on the oily substances binding
dirt to the skin. Creams containing water are rubbed on the skin in a thin layer
and the water they contain is, to a large extent, lost by evaporation. Even when
a substantial proportion of the water originally present still remains, emulsion
inversion of the water originally present still remains, emulsion inversion may
take place leading to a water-in-oil type of emulsion in which solvent action on
the binding oil is facilitated. Yolk of egg may be added to control viscosity.
The requirements of a cleansing cream are as follow:
(a)
It should liquefy at body temperature.
(b)
Its viscosity should be low enough to permit easy spreading but high
enough to retain in suspension particles of dirt and insoluble foreign matter.
(c)
It should penetrate the epidermis (via natural openings) and contain
enough light oils to permit flushing the pores.
(d)
It should be an emulsion type with a small percentage of water
(e)
It should possess a mild bleaching action.
(f)
It should leave the skin smooth, relax, refreshed, non-greasy and clean.
(g)
It should contain no chemical that would be quickly absorbed by the skin.
Almond/Mineral oil is the
essential ingredient of all cleansing creams. The oil itself can be used for
cleansing purposes and, as a matter of fact, is the important constituent of
baby oils. Oil alone, however, is not a satisfactory cosmetic and must be
combined with other herbal materials to provide a preparation that can easily
and conveniently be applied to the skin and has an attractive appearance.
Two general types of cleansing creams are in common use, namely,
liquefying creams, so-called, which do not contain water and emulsified creams
with a large proportion of mineral oil. For the first type of preparation,
manufacture is extremely simple, components being melted together, mixed until
homogeneous, and the mixture then poured into jars where it is permitted to set.
The preferable method of filling involves first filling the jars half full,
permitting the contents to solidify, then filling the jars to the proper level
with more of the melted mixture. The temperatures should be low enough so that a
crater will not be formed in the cream surface on cooling.
The product itself must be
solid and remain so under ordinary temperature; it must rapidly and completely
melt on the skin to a liquid which is thick enough not to flow of the skin; it
should not leak oil. This last may be assured by the incorporation of about
one-half percent of carnauba wax in the melted mixture.
If a translucent product is desired, components must be limited to
paraffin, petrolatum, and mineral oil; a white opaque mixture results from the
use of ceresin, beeswax, or zinc oxide.
The problem in the formulation of creams of this type lies in the
production of a mineral oil gel, which is solid at normal atmospheric
temperatures. Mineral oil may be solidified by the addition of sufficient
paraffin; a mixture of this sort does not hold oil firmly and “bleeding”
will soon occur. Petrolatum holds oil in the mixture, and enough to accomplish
this purpose should be present. Too much, however, will prevent the preparation
from liquefying completely on the skin. Ceresin also has this power of holding
oil in the gel. Emollients are useful in cleansing creams, since they counteract
the effect of too great removal of natural skin oils by the cleansing cream.
Different persons may get varying results with the same formula. It is
important that each of the compositions presented by carefully checked and be
tested for shelf life before offering these creams for sale. Consistency of the
creams may be varied between hard and soft by increasing or decreasing the wax
content.
No.
1 Emulsion, Quick Melting Type
By weight
Vegetable
lard
27.0
Almond oil
(6575)
45.5
Beeswax
18.0
Hydrogen
peroxide 17 vols.
3.0
Lanolin
3.0
Water
3.0
Perfume
0.5
100.0
Melt the beeswax and petrolatum, add lanolin and oils. Mix, cool, and the
peroxide and finally the jelly.
No.2 Quick Melting, Mineral Jelly Type
By weight
Almond oil
(65-75)
43.0
Petrolatum
38.5
Ceresin
12.0
Stearic acid
6.0
Perfume
0.5
100.0
Melt waxes and petrolatum, add oil and perfume when cool.
No.3
Cold Cream Type
By weight
Beeswax
15.0
Vegetable lard
10.0
White oil (65-75)
45.0
Water almond
28.75
Borax
0.75
Perfume
0.5
100.
Melt wax and petrolatum, add oil. Dissolve borax in hot water. Add to
above with stirring. Perfume at 110°F.
No. 4
Absorption Base Type
By weight
Beeswax
13.0
Vegetable lard
8.0
White oil (65-75)
20.0
Water almond
39.75
Borax
19.5
Perfume
0.5
100.0
Melt the waxes and add the oils. Warm the absorption base to 40°C. and
the water likewise; then slowly add the water with steady but not violent
agitation. Then add the melted waxes. A variation of this can be made by
reversing quantities of oil and water, i.e., oil 39%, water 19.5%.
No.5 Lemon
Cleansing Cream
Vegetable lard (refined) M.P.
133
20 kg
Beeswax white
25 kg
Petrolatum onyx
5 kg
Rose oil
100 kg
Heat the above to 140°F. and
add in mixer:
Water dist. (heated to 140°F.)
50 kg
Borax
1.4 kg
Lemon type perfume (herbal)
1.8 kg
Additional
Formulas
No.6
By weight
Almond oil
65.0
Petrolatum
15.0
Paraffin
20.0
No.7
Almond oil
65.0
Petrolatum
12.0
Paraffin
18.0
Cetyl alcohol
1.0
Spermaceti
4.0
100.0
No.8
Beeswax
8.3
Paraffin
6.0
Petrolatum
7.4
Coconut oil
43.5
Borax
0.3
Water
34.5
100.0
No.9
Coconut oil
62.5
Petrolatum
18.75
Paraffin
12.5
Beeswax
6.25
No.
10
Beeswax
8.0
Paraffin
7.0
Cetyl alcohol
1.0
Coconut oil
49.0
Borax
0.4
Water
34.6
100.0
No.
11
Beeswax
4.0
Paraffin
12.0
Petrolatum
12.0
Neem oil
39.8
Borax
0.2
Water
32.0
100.0
No.
12
Beeswax
6 gms
Paraffin wax
3 gms
Ceresin white
3 gms
Chandan oil
45 gms
Water distilled
20 gms
Petrolatum (superla white)
2 gms
Borax
12 gms
Perfume
6 gms
No.3
Soft cold Cream Type
By weight
Beeswax
6.0
Paraffin
12.5
White petrolatum
8.0
Ushira oil
58.0
Water
15.0
Potassium carbonate
0.3
Borax
0.2
100.0
The waxes, petrolatum, and oil are melted together and brought to 65°-75°C.
The water containing the potassium carbonate and borax in solution is run in at
the same temperature. Stirring is continued until cool. After adding perfume,
the cream is allowed to stand over night and filled by warming slightly until
just liquid.
The above is a smooth, stable white cream of medium soft consistency,
which liquefies fairly readily and makes an excellent cleansing cream for dry
skins.
No.14
liquefying Emulsion cream
By weight
Beeswax
4.0
Paraffin
10.0
Vegetable lard
10.8
Neem oil
55.0
Water
18.0
Borax
1.2
Glycerin
1.0
100.0
No.
15 Cleansing Cream
Paraffin wax refined
20 kgs.
Beeswax white
25 kgs.
Rose oil
105 kgs.
Water dist
50 kgs.
Borax (granular)
1.4 kgs.
Belle de nut cream and talc
perfume
1.12 kgs
Heat waxes and oil in jacketed kettle to 140°F. Dissolve borax in water
at 140°F. in another vessel and pour into waxes etc. Drop mixer and stir for
the hour. Pour into jars at 120°F.
No.16
Liquefying Cleansing Cream
Ceresin
36 gm.
Sup. white pet.
40 gm.
Rose oil
124 gm.
New cream perfume
1.25 gm.
No.17
By weight
Protegin X
15
Ceresin
20
Neem oil
50
Water
15
100.0
Just as cold creams may be divided into oil-in-water (beeswax-borax)
types and water-in-oil creams (beeswax with additional alkali), cleansing creams
may be beeswax-borax (and another type of oil-in-water cream to be discussed
later) and water-in-oil. This last group of cleansing creams differs from
water-in-oil cold creams in that beeswax is not the emulsifier used. Where
beeswax is the sole emulsifying agent in a water-in-oil cream, the latter is
likely to be relatively unstable and will not be the fine textured white cream
required for cosmetic application.
Cleansing
creams/cold creams
(1)
(2)
(3)
White beeswax
120 gm
Sweet almond
oil
500 ml
50
50
Rose water
50 ml
Borax powder
5 gm
Bitter almond
oil
50 ml
Sodium benzoate
5 gm
5 gm
Honey dew soap
30 gm
Ground almond
120 gm
Egg yolk
of 4 eggs
Honey
250 gm
Mix all the ingredients except sodium benzoate over a low flame. When the
mixture cools down add sodium benzoate. Keep it in a bottle under refrigeration.
Oatmeal
cleansing cream
Buttermilk
25 ml
Oatmeal
60 gm
Sodium benzoate
5 gm
Buttermilk is the residue liquid from which butter has been separated.
Mix sodium benzoate in the buttermilk and add oatmeal to the mixture. Make a
fine paste.
Chamomile
cleansing cream
Chamomile flowers
50 gm
Distilled water
500 ml
Lemon juice
5 ml
Sodium benzoate
2 gm
Put chamomile flowers and water over a low flame for 10-15 minutes.
Strain and let it cool. Add lemon juice and sodium benzoate and keep it in
refrigerator.
Face packs or face masks
These are required to supplement the primary phase of skin care, i.e.
cleansing. Masks stimulate the blood circulation, tone the muscles and maintain
the elasticity of the skin. Also they draw out impurities from the pores.
Followings are some of the face packs:
FACE PACKS
FOR NORMAL SKIN
Apricot Face
Pack
Honey
10 ml
Apricot extract
10 ml
Almond oil
2 ml
Lemon juice
2 ml
Mix all the ingredients and apply this paste on the face
Bail Fruit
face pack
Bail fruit powder
10 ml
Date extract
30 ml
Honey
15 ml
Face
packs for dry skin
Yoghurt
15 gm
Multani mitti powder
15 gm
Mint powder
5 gm
Egg
face pack
Egg white
1 egg
Multani mitti
5 gm
Peppermint extract
2 gm
Water
15 ml
Soak multani mitti powder in the water. Beat the egg and blend in all the
ingredients together.
Face pack of
oily skin
Cucumber face
pack
Cucumber juice
20 ml
Peppermints extract
2 ml
Mint juice
20 gm
Face
pack for patchy skin
Brewer’s yeast
125 gm
Witch hazel extract
5 ml
Peppermint extract
5 ml
Lemon juice
5 ml
It is a soothing pack for effective blood circulation.
Red
Elm face pack
Red elm bark powder
5 gm
Yoghurt
100 gm
Honey
5 gm
Peppermint extract
2 ml
Sodium bicarbonate
1 gm
Skin toning lotions
Toning removes greasiness remaining from cleansing preparations, closed
pores and refine the skin. They freshen the skin and stimulate the blood supply
to the skin.
Sunflower
skin toning lotion
Lanolin
50 ml
Sunflower
50 ml
Wheat germ oil
5 ml
Witch hazel extract
25 ml
Sodium benzoate
5 gm
Melt lanolin in a pan over a low flame and stir in sunflower oil. Remove
from the heat and stir wheat oil and witchhazel with sodium benzoate.
Absorption bases are to be recommended for the preparation of
water-in-oil emulsions that are stable, white and fine-textured, and have
emollient value. These products consist of a special grade of petrolatum
containing a concentrate derived from lanolin, which has great water holding
power. These bases can hold almost five times their weight of water and when
properly used lead to fine products.
Water-in-oil creams are generally made by melting together the oily
components of the mixture and then allowing the mixture to cool to about 40°C.,
or to incipient solidification. Water at this temperature is then stirred in a
little at a time until the required amount has been added. These water-in-oil
creams will separate if remelted and must therefore be filled cold into jars.
Lanolin creams are made in the same way and the same precautions must be
observed in filling them.
No.1
Lanolin anhydrous
25 kgs
Paraffin 130°-2° M.P.
112 ½ kgs
Beeswax
193 ¾ kgs
Almond oil
119 ¾ kgs
White petrolatum
425 kgs
Water dist
475 kgs
Tegosept
350 kgs
Boric acid
4.11 kgs
Emulsifier
6 ¼kgs
Perfume
3.2 kgs
Melt waxes in oils to 140°F. and strain through cheesecloth. Dissolve
freedom in 50 kgs. hot water, cool with 50 kgs. water. Dissolve tegosept and
boric acid in same quantities of water. Strain into waxes while mixing. Add
balance of water. Temperature now about 140°F. Fill at 100°F.
No.2 Cream
Cholesterin Type
Hydrocerin
24 kgs.
Neem oil
20 kgs.
Lanolin
30 kgs.
Vegetable lard
250 kgs
Beeswax
20 kgs
Spermaceti
24 kgs.
Glycerin
50 kgs.
Water
572 kgs.
Magnesium sulfate
5 kgs.
Perfume
5 kgs.
Add ½ of 1% of benzocaine
The hydrocerin should be completely melted with the fatty constituents on
a water bath. If done over an open flame care must be taken as excessive
temperature causes foaming and discoloration. Add the water and glycerin after
the mass is completely melted and the mixture should then be left to stand until
it reaches a temperature of 60°C.emulsification is started. To obtain a stable
product a homogenizing machine should be used. Complete emulsification is
usually obtained in about one-half hour. The benzocaine is best added by
dissolving it in the perfume oil. This can be done by warming the oil slightly.
The terms “All Purpose Cream” “Three Purpose Cream” and “Four
Purpose Cream” bear more weight as far as their names are concerned than
through carrying out these purposes when applied to the skin. It is questionable
whether one cream can be designed to accomplish the same purposes as four
different creams will accomplish. In some cases, the very claims made are
illogical and contradictory. Just as an example, the addition of sufficient
emollient to a cleansing cream to actually soften the skin reduces, in most
cases, its cleansing power.
As a general statement then almost any cold cream or cleansing cream may
be termed an all purpose cream. This is actually what is done by cosmetic
manufacturers many times in order to simplify their line of creams. An all
purpose cream is a cream which combines the properties of specializes creams as
far as is possible. In some cases the consumer, through weight of advertising,
believes the claims, but the more discriminating users prefer specialized
individual creams, for special effects upon the skin.
We present some formulas for All Purpose Creams. From the manufacturing
standpoint any good cold cream or cleansing cream may be assigned additional or
extended uses to designate it as an all purpose cream.
No.1
All Purpose Cream
Cucumber juice
35 kgs.
Borax
1 kgs.
BIS beeswax
8 kgs.
Iso beeswax
6 kgs.
Ceresin
3 kgs.
Absorption base
3 kgs.
Mineral oil vis. 75/80 S.G. 910
44 kgs.
Perfume
¾ kgs.
No.2
All Purpose Cream
Mineral oil 75/80
91 ¼ kgs.
Paraffin (133° M.P.)
12 ½ kgs.
Spermaceti
10 kgs.
Cetyl alcohol
2 ½ kgs
Beeswax
21 kgs.
Marigold water
125 kgs.
Cholesterol
1 ¼ kgs.
Protein X
3 ¾ kgs.
Hydrosol
1 ¼ kgs
Tegosept
1 kgs.
Methyl cellulose
½ kgs
Perfume
0.15 kgs.
1.
Dissolve methylcellulose by adding 10 kgs. water. Stir to wet. Cool and
stir occasionally.
2.
Melt waxes together.
3.
Add white rose oil, cholesterol, protegin and hydrocol.
4.
Strain into kettle and heat to 140°F.
5.
Add dissolved methyl cellulose to water and heat to 140°F. Add
gradually.
6.
Mix at high speed until temperature is 105°F.
7.
Fill at this temperature.
No.
3 Citrons All Purpose Cream
By weight
Hydrosol
12.0
Water
78.0
Glycerin
1.0
Almond oil
2.0
Cetyl alcohol crude
5.0
Satiric acid
2.0
Lemon juice
0.25
100.0
CHAPTER 7.1
DENTRIFICES
AND MOUTH WASHES
Dentifrices and mouthwashes which are generally produced by cosmetic
manufacturers are really not cosmetics. They fall more properly into the field
of hygienic products. Just as soap is used to cleanse the surface of the body so
are these items necessary to the proper cleansing of the oral cavity. Both
products have more or less the same functions, which are to cleanse, to
counteract bad breath and to leave a refreshing clean taste in the mouth. It may
also be argued that properly cleaned teeth add to personal appearance and good
health.
There are various classes of tooth powders on the market. These comprise
the most common or foaming, abrasive type, those that contain charcoal, the
dedicated type and the dissolving type. Two common formulas for foaming type of
tooth powder are as follows:
No.1
Saindhara
160 kgs.
Calcium sulfate (chrysalba)
20 kgs.
Neutral white soap powder
30 kgs.
Saccharine
5 gm
Flavor
3 kgs.
No.2
Akarakara
44 kgs.
Precipitated chalk, light
20 kgs.
Silica air-floated (000 grade)
25 kgs.
Zinc chloride
1 kgs.
Castile soap powder
5 kgs.
Borax
5 kgs.
Saccharine (soluble)
4 gms.
Flavor
1 kgs.
A tooth powder which contains charcoal may be made by this formula:
No.3
Ground willow charcoal
100 kgs.
Akarakara
90 kgs.
Neutral white soap powder
30 kgs.
Saccharine
6 gm
Flavor
4 kgs.
There are many variations of medicated tooth powders possible but the
most popular ones on the market today are those that base their claims on their
peroxide content. Formulas for this type are as follows:
No.4
Akarakara
100 kgs.
Precipitated chalk, dense
100 kgs.
Powdered sugar
10 kgs.
Sodium carbonates
25 kgs.
Flavor
4 kgs.
No.5
Akarakara
150 kgs.
Magnesium, carbonate
25 kgs.
Saccharine
5 gms
Flavor
4 kgs.
Calcium
25 kgs.
The dissolving types of tooth powders consist of combinations of entirely
water-soluble substances like borax, salt, sodium bicarbonate and sodium
carbonate. Sodium carbonate, which was used in the pure state several years ago,
has been quite generally criticized because it is claimed to be deleterious when
used in the mouth.
Since this tooth powder field is one in which many formulas may be
devised, additional composition of these products are presented.
No.6
Oxygenated tooth powder
Tricalcium phosphate
35.0
Akarakara
40.15
Pulverized neutral white soap
10.0
Sodium carbonates
14.0
Flavor (oil of wintergreen)
0.75
Saccharine
0.1
No.7
Antacid Tooth Powder
Purified zinc peroxide
10.0
Saindhava
46.0
Tricalcium phosphate
20.0
Bicarbonate of soda
6.5
Pulverized neutral soap
6.0
Confectioner’s XXXX
